thisweek

Collection

Chefs who taught a country to cook

Dishes from the cooks and writers who made home cooking legible — by technique, by voice, by reassurance.

The twentieth century turned cooking from an inherited skill into something a person could learn from a book or a screen. The cooks gathered here did that work: they tested the roast until it worked in an ordinary oven, explained why the onions had to brown, and wrote as if the reader were standing at the counter beside them.

These dishes are the proof. Each one is a page from a kitchen that taught, kept because it still works: a bourguignon built on patient browning, a chicken roasted with nothing but herbs and timing, a tarte tatin turned out of the pan for the small drama of it.

Boeuf Bourguignon

Julia Child

Beef braised in red wine with bacon, onions, and mushrooms — the dish that taught America to braise.

Roast Chicken with Herbs

James Beard

Beard's high-heat roast chicken, rubbed with butter and herbs and turned so the skin crackles on every side.

Daube Provençale

Elizabeth David

A Provençal beef daube braised with wine, orange peel, and olives — David's antidote to bland postwar cooking.

Omelette aux Fines Herbes

M.F.K. Fisher

Fisher's softly set herb omelette, the dish she used to argue that cooking is a matter of attention, not technique.

Quiche Lorraine

Julia Child

The bacon-and-cream custard tart Child made the model for a thousand quiches — and a lesson in blind-baking.

New England Clambake

Craig Claiborne

Claiborne's shore dinner of clams, lobster, corn, and potatoes steamed over seaweed in a pit or a big pot.

Tarte Tatin

Julia Child

An upside-down caramelized apple tart, the rustic French dessert Child demystified for American bakers.

Strawberry Shortcake

James Beard

Beard's American shortcake: a tender biscuit split and filled with macerated berries and softly whipped cream.